Battery drain

[Keith Cunningham]

I've got a Rover 214Si which loses a lot of charge overnight, particularly
if it's a cold night. I've got three batteries which all hold full charge
when they're off the car, but all three lose charge when they're fitted. The
car starts instantly when I use one of the spare batteries with jump leads.
Once it starts it's ok for the rest of the day.

The alternator's been tested and it's delivering what it should be. It is
newish, after all.

The only electrical device running overnight is the immobiliser, but the
battery loses charge as if the lights had been left on all the time.

I'm just wondering if anybody's had the same problem and found a cure.

Cheers,

KeithC

[Brian Watson]

Post by Keith Cunningham
I've got a Rover 214Si which loses a lot of charge overnight, particularly
if it's a cold night. I've got three batteries which all hold full charge
when they're off the car, but all three lose charge when they're fitted. The
car starts instantly when I use one of the spare batteries with jump leads.
Once it starts it's ok for the rest of the day.
The alternator's been tested and it's delivering what it should be. It is
newish, after all.
The only electrical device running overnight is the immobiliser, but the
battery loses charge as if the lights had been left on all the time.
I'm just wondering if anybody's had the same problem and found a cure.

Sorry, I've not had the problem despite occasionally leaving the interior
light on all night.

[Skizzo]

Post by Keith Cunningham
I've got a Rover 214Si which loses a lot of charge overnight, particularly
if it's a cold night.

I've had a similar problem: once fully charged, the battery held the charge
for just about 100-200 km, or 2-3 days (lately, even less).

It turned out to be the alternator; it wasn't capable to recharge the
battery anymore (although the alternator light on the car dashboard didn't
signal any problem).
Quite normal, I think, since my 214Si has 130.000 km and is 17 years old.
:-)

Post by Keith Cunningham
Once it starts it's ok for the rest of the day.

Again, it's normal; engine start requires the most electrical power, and
even more when it's cold (with low temperatures, batteries loses power and
engine oil becomes thicker).

Post by Keith Cunningham
The alternator's been tested and it's delivering what it should be. It is
newish, after all.

I hear that.
But if the alternator is ok, then what?

Maybe there's some dispersion; maybe there's some electrical wire or device
that has a minimal short-circuit (wire insulation worn), and it dissipates
power over time (it sounds unlikely, though...).

[Keith Cunningham]

Post by Skizzo

Post by Keith Cunningham
The alternator's been tested and it's delivering what it should be. It is
newish, after all.

I hear that.
But if the alternator is ok, then what?

The alternator's fine at tickover, and at first I suspected a slipping drive
belt because I was left with a flat battery after a run through a massive
rainstorm. Experts tell me that the belt would be squealing if it was
slipping, but I'm still a bit suspicious about it..

[Skizzo]

Post by Keith Cunningham
The alternator's fine at tickover, and at first I suspected a slipping drive
belt because I was left with a flat battery after a run through a massive
rainstorm.

That could be it.

(I don't know what "tickover" means, though; I'm Italian)

Post by Keith Cunningham
Experts tell me that the belt would be squealing if it was
slipping, but I'm still a bit suspicious about it..

A slipping belt should produce some noise, as a matter of fact... but who
knows.

You should test the alternator output with an electric tester, while the
engine is running: so you would be sure if the alternator is really
producing the required current, or not.
(it could be it produces current, but not enough)

Did you ask for hints to some car repair center?

[Keith Cunningham]

Post by Skizzo
You should test the alternator output with an electric tester, while the
engine is running: so you would be sure if the alternator is really
producing the required current, or not.
(it could be it produces current, but not enough)
Did you ask for hints to some car repair center?

The auto electrician who checked it couldn't find any problems with the
alternator or the battery.

The weather had been a few degrees warmer for a couple of days and the car
started ok, but now the temperature's dropped to around 5 degrees C it's
back to the jump leads.

[Cash]

Post by Keith Cunningham

Post by Skizzo
You should test the alternator output with an electric tester, while
the engine is running: so you would be sure if the alternator is
really producing the required current, or not.
(it could be it produces current, but not enough)
Did you ask for hints to some car repair center?

The auto electrician who checked it couldn't find any problems with
the alternator or the battery.
The weather had been a few degrees warmer for a couple of days and
the car started ok, but now the temperature's dropped to around 5
degrees C it's back to the jump leads.

Keith,

It's probably the low temperatures affecting the battery output - a well
known fact, even on a new, fully charged one.

As a matter of interest, you could try insulating the battery with an old,
thick blanket overnight (don't forget to remove in the morning) just to see
if that is the case - or put the car in the garage (if you have one) with an
old fashioned paraffin sump heater underneath the engine.

Cash

[Brian Watson]

Post by Cash
It's probably the low temperatures affecting the battery output - a well
known fact, even on a new, fully charged one.

Sorry, but this is 2008/9.

A battery should not be failing to start the car if it's a couple of degrees
below zero.

[Cash]

Post by Brian Watson

Post by Cash
It's probably the low temperatures affecting the battery output - a
well known fact, even on a new, fully charged one.

Sorry, but this is 2008/9.
A battery should not be failing to start the car if it's a couple of
degrees below zero.

Brian,

A lot of things are the same in 2008/9 as they were 40 - 50 years ago when I
first started 'messing' with those unreliable mechanical monsters called
automobiles (cars). :-)

The battery on my car (good) has been rather lethargic when starting the car
over the last few days with the weather below freezing - it's a well know
fact that freezing temperatures affect batteries btw.

As a matter of interest, the same applies to those batteries that you stick
in the torches that are kept in the car boot for emergencies - they are
certainly dimmer and don't last as long in the cold weather as they do in
the warmer summer weather.

But, in the context of the OP, what is there to lose by simply insulating
the battery overnight? Absolutely zilch!

Cash

[Brian Watson]

Post by Cash

Post by Brian Watson

Post by Cash
It's probably the low temperatures affecting the battery output - a
well known fact, even on a new, fully charged one.

Sorry, but this is 2008/9.
A battery should not be failing to start the car if it's a couple of
degrees below zero.

Brian,
A lot of things are the same in 2008/9 as they were 40 - 50 years ago when
I first started 'messing' with those unreliable mechanical monsters called
automobiles (cars). :-)
The battery on my car (good) has been rather lethargic when starting the
car over the last few days with the weather below freezing - it's a well
know fact that freezing temperatures affect batteries btw.
As a matter of interest, the same applies to those batteries that you
stick in the torches that are kept in the car boot for emergencies - they
are certainly dimmer and don't last as long in the cold weather as they do
in the warmer summer weather.
But, in the context of the OP, what is there to lose by simply insulating
the battery overnight? Absolutely zilch!

Nothing to lose except having to go out and getting the bonnet up on a
sub-zero night.

I have a late-ish Rover 200 with the 1.8i engine and *never* have this
problem, despite the car always being left out overnight.

The OP's vehicle has a fault: either it is a substandard battery or his
charging circuit (and possibly his ignition system) requires attention.

[Stephen]

Post by Keith Cunningham

Post by Skizzo

Post by Keith Cunningham
The alternator's been tested and it's delivering what it should be. It

is

Post by Skizzo

Post by Keith Cunningham
newish, after all.

I hear that.
But if the alternator is ok, then what?

The alternator's fine at tickover, and at first I suspected a slipping drive
belt because I was left with a flat battery after a run through a massive
rainstorm. Experts tell me that the belt would be squealing if it was
slipping, but I'm still a bit suspicious about it..

If you oil the belt it stops the squealing! LOL ;-)

[Brian Watson]

Post by Stephen

Post by Keith Cunningham
Experts tell me that the belt would be squealing if it was
slipping, but I'm still a bit suspicious about it..

If you oil the belt it stops the squealing! LOL ;-)

Is it right that a silicon spray lubes the belt but not enough to cause
slippage?